Honorable Mention TOKYO-2016 Book / Documnetry

Pabean Passage

  • Photographer
    Anton Gautama

For over a century, the Pabean Market has been the center of the spice trade in the agrarian Indonesian province of East Java. The sweet smell of spices filling the air; workers carrying baskets bursting with produce and seafood to the compact, cluttered shops lining the labyrinth of alleys the Pabean Market, is typical (but in some respects unique) for markets in Java. From the air, Pabean Market resembles a spider web, the threads representing the interconnecting alleys. I had spent a year in this web, trying to capture the heartbeat of the century-old market. As might be expected, I captured the physical atmosphere of the market: the random goods and produce, alleys with their rows of stalls. But he also found the heart of the market: the people. Hidden in the crowded corners of the market, jammed into a twelve-square meter stall (one of hundreds) but living peacefully with their neighbours—sharing life space– the shopkeepers and laborers yearned to be found, to be discovered. The images of the faces reveal the emotions and expressions, the various cultural, religious and psychological backgrounds—a mosaic of humanity in peaceful co-existence. I once again set foot in Pabean Market—a place I used to visit with my mother as a young boy. This century-old market, thriving since the colonial era, reflects a wonderfully dynamic and complex life. It has become a melting pot that unites Javanese, Madurese, and Chinese communities. The devoutly Muslim Madurese, the tolerant Javanese, and liberal Chinese (whose family members are allowed to hold their own beliefs) each play a distinct role in the economic activity of Pabean Market. They occupy their own niche, but all work in synergy. They have their individual beliefs and convoluted backgrounds, but all are united in a common goal: pursuing a livelihood in Pabean Market. The natural beauty of the architecture, despite being in need of maintenance, reflects the strong and diverse native culture, as symbolised by the traditional dress of the Madurese merchants. This display of pride in their heritage touched my heart, leading me to understand and identify with that intriguing culture. Additionally, I came to learn and appreciate the market way of life as an aspect of the life that God has created for us all. Life is not forever linked with worldly materials or wealth; it is also about the things that we can feel, things that we can share with others. Sharing the bitter- sweetness of life, interacting with others, and appreciating life itself are what makes this life worth living. I hope that my photographic journeyand interaction with the denizens of Pabean Market can somehow convey a representation of beauty and harmony, as well as showcasing other aspects of life and cultures that we should preserve and appreciate.